Where to get your greedy little paws on varenyki in New York City
Otherwise known as Ukrainian pierogis, for the uninitiated
Last night, I went to the Russian and Turkish Baths in the East Village for the first time. The baths opened 132 years ago, and are now famously co-owned by two men named David and Boris who seem to have a long-standing feud: they take turns operating the facility on alternating weeks, and sell separate tickets that are only valid during their own week. Yesterday was a Boris day.
Aside from an accidental nip slip in the Russian Room — an episode in which I poured a bucket of water on my head, totally overpowering my strapless bikini top, and some man sitting three feet away said, “Let it out, girl,” or something horrific to that effect — it was a delight, and I emerged with an only-slightly-embarrassed glow.
After we finished sweating, my friend Caroline and I went to the connected cafeteria and ordered some very reasonably priced borscht and varenyki, or pierogis. (They’re called varenyki in Ukraine and pierogi in Poland, but the terms are mostly interchangeable.) They came in the most charming little pot stuffed with at least ten fluffy dumplings. Biting into one of these was the perfect heartening antidote to the energy-robbing steam of the baths; with a slathering of sour cream, it’s a revelation.
These are simple pierogis, with no interior frills or funky toppings, just steamed wrappers stuffed with pureed potato. For a more elevated pierogi experience, you could also always skip the potentially humiliating bathing experience and head to Veselka, which just opened a new location in Williamsburg last Wednesday. (I wrote about the opening, btw, if anyone even cares.)
I think it’s fair to say that Veselka is the biggest name on the city’s Ukrainian restaurant scene. Because it’s been family-owned by Ukrainian Americans for three generations, Veselka was mobbed for weeks when Russia invaded Ukraine. There’s a recent documentary about their war fundraising efforts (they’ve donated over $600,000 in borscht sales!) that owner Jason tells me will hopefully soon be available on streaming. Now, they’re making some big expansion moves.
Varenyki at Veselka are more showy than at the bathhouse. You can order a plate of four or eight pierogi, elect to have them boiled or fried, and then mix and match between fillings — I particularly liked the arugula and goat cheese. While we were eating, my guy Vitalii also brought us some of Veselka’s special collaboration pierogis filled with pastrami from Katz’s. I prefer ‘em boiled with sour cream, but these were pretty tasty, too.
Of course, that’s not all the pierogi vendors in NYC. There’s a decent stand at Dekalb Market called Pierogi Boys with deeply caramelized onions to top your pierogi, but in my humble opinion, it’s not worth going out of your way for; you can also head to Baba’s Pierogies on Fourth Ave for funkier offerings, like a jalapeño-based filling. I am deeply upset that I never made it to the elusive Streecha before it closed in May. If you know a varenyki vendor I haven’t mentioned, hit me with a comment — for now, I think I’m sticking with my pillowy post-schvitz pierogi at the bathhouse.
Other fantastic things I’ve eaten recently
Scallion sourdough focaccia at Silver Apricot (20 Cornelia St)
Silver Apricot is a modern Chinese American restaurant in the West Village that made the NYTimes’ 100 best restaurants in 2023. I went for a cute garden party PR event this week and haven’t been able to get the bread they served out of my mind. It’s a sourdough focaccia, heavy and holey, served with a schmear of this delicious, honey-filled scallion butter. Love the color, love the heft of the bread, love the sweetness of the butter. It’s rare to go to an event where every bite they serve is worth writing about; check out Silver Apricot’s menu and see why for yourself.
Rhubarb and custard croissant at Radio Bakery (135 India St)
Radio Bakery has elevated rhubarb to the star of its own show, for once, instead of diminishing it to strawberry’s sidekick. The rhubarb on this pastry is tangy and flavorful, nestled into vanilla custard on a flaky croissant bed. I’m not 100% on board with calling this a croissant but I guess I’ll give it to them because this might be one of the best croissants I’ve ever had. Also, rumor has it (via a woman I walked by on the street, and also Eater) that there will soon be a Radio Bakery in Park Slope, which is exhilarating, and might mean less waiting in preposterous lines. (I went today at 11:25am and only waited for five min, if useful to my semi-employed audience.)
Yum Samgler at UnTable (529 Henry St)
Last week I paid another visit to UnTable, which I first wrote about when they opened, to see how things were going. The answer is things are going well, especially with this perfect summery salad. The yum samgler is a dainty fruit mix dressed with a citrus dressing. It’s made with diced thai chili, tomatoes, firm grapes, dates, perfectly ripe strawberries, and a layer of orange slices. This is not the type of thing I usually eat — there are SEVERAL ingredients in it I would never normally touch — but I was goaded into sharing it, and it had such a smart snap to it, and such depth of flavor, and what can I say? I’m broadening my horizons.
In Other News…
Here’s the stuff I’ve published recently:
Veselka’s savory pierogies and borscht land in Williamsburg – I know I already linked it. This is for the fools who didn’t click the first time.
A laboratory of elixirs opens in Industry City – Bitter Monk is literally a mad alchemist’s lab. Owners Ektoras and Simon bring an intensity to drinking that I have actually never seen in the wild before. They’re making bitters out of the craziest things over there!
Epic Brooklyn Pride celebrated by thousands – This title, written by my editor, is the first time the word “epic” has been attributed to me in print without me actively advocating for it to stay in the copy. Glad that my personal brand is alive and well.
Sending love…
Hannah
You make me wanna leave Minnesota and New York to get a bite of that croissant or almost croissant