In 2024, we're spending all day at the eatery

Good things come in twos (which is the format of this newsletter for some reason)

I’m developing a theory that there are basically only two settings for new restaurant concepts these days. Either they’re limited-run pop-ups, serving just one dish or a tiny menu and only open once a week/month/year/whatever, or they’re on the total opposite side of the spectrum — open all hours of the day, and serving everything from breakfast to dinner, but in a posh, small-plates way. Is the “all-day eatery” (a phrase I am loathe to type yet again this month) the new, updated NYC version of a diner?

Who knows. All I know is that I am intensely interested in eating all day. So I guess I’m in the right place.

Two cool new all-day eateries I wrote about this month

1. Che (302 Malcolm X Blvd)

Fantastic egg sandwich (breakfast menu) and prototype of what will be a baby gem salad (dinner menu)

Che is the newest concept by Adam Keita, co-owner of Daughter, and several other industry vets. I got to go the morning it opened and interview Adam right after Scott Lynch, who, as we all know, is my favorite food writer, so that was a real rush for little old Hannah. Che is co-owned by five people who all know each other from youth group, of all things. Read my story about this crazy crew of high school friends here.

Also: Daughter is in financial trouble, as they announced this morning via Instagram, and needs to raise money to stay in business. If you’re moved to donate, here’s the link to their GoFundMe.

2. Radio Star (13 Greenpoint Ave)

All the food was great but I will be thinking in particular of the labneh/date/pig cheek dish on the right for years to come…

Radio Star opened in early November in Greenpoint, one of several (SEVERAL) buzzy new restaurants in the same few-block radius. It was created by Sara Conklin, who also owns the nearby Glasserie. The food here is Mediterranean, and great, but I was most drawn in by the decor — everything in this place is inspired by the history of radio broadcasting at Transmitter Park. Read my interview with Sara here.

Two sick events you should probably go to

1. Tables of Contents reading

Host Evan Hanczor with Tess Gunty, Gina Chung, and Megan Fernandes

I’m head over heels for this series and I will NOT shut up about it. Tables of Contents is an event series where three authors read a portion of their novel, and then the brilliant Evan Hanczor and his team cook up a small dish based on the passage. For this particular reading, my favorite dish was the first course, based on a heartwrenching poem by Megan Fernandes — it was this captivating, tagine-flavored carrot puree with uni mixed in, which was texturally fascinating, a pleasant orange, and the flavors worked so well together. Everyone at my table was scared to take a bite but it was so good? Their loss.

2. Cake Zine launch

Impossibly cute (they know what they’re doing here)

Cake Zine is a quarterly-ish lit mag that just released its 4th installation, called Tough Cookie, this past week. I got to go to the launch with my fellow Inquisitive Eater editors and check out what a successful food/lit mag party looks like (inspiring!). It seems like everyone with whom I’ve ever come into semi-professional contact was at this event, but I somehow didn’t run into any of them (too many people!). I had a fantastic grasshopper dupe and peeled a flat shortbread cookie off the Cookie Wall, which makes it a successful party if you ask me.

Two best things I’ve eaten recently

1. Latkes at Gertrude’s

Come! on!

Yes, I have extolled Gertrude’s before — I just love that their whole aesthetic is a flash tattoo sheet — but this time, I’m just here to talk about the latkes. This Hannukah, my friend Zoe and I realized that we were too stupid to make our own latkes, and opted to get these instead — the beasts at Gertrude’s are crispy and thick, topped with refreshing celery-flavored creme fraiche and trout roe (!) for an elevated, salty extravaganza. What’s especially great about Gertrude’s is that their latkes are a year-round offering, so if you didn’t go for Hannukah, you didn’t miss out. Thank God!

2. Branzino at Astoria Seafood

The plating is not what you go here for tbh

We had to take two ferries (TWO!) and walk for 30 minutes in the bitter cold to get to Astoria Seafood and it was still well worth it. Coming from the laziest person you’ve ever met, that should tell you everything you need to know about Astoria Seafood. Instead of behaving like a regular restaurant, this Greek seafood place just has a full-on fish market on ice in the back. When you enter, you get to pick out which fish you’d like to eat with your own two hands, and when they ring it up, they ask how you’d like it cooked. (Grilled is the correct answer.) This branzino (which they label cutely as “bransini”) blew me away — they grill it with garlicky oil and give you big hunks of lemon to squeeze over the fish, and I didn’t need any other flavors to get in the way of this buttery flesh. This is one of the most magical meals I’ve ever had and I hope to be lucky enough never to forget it.

Two heartfelt wishes

1. Have a great holiday season,

2. and be well!

Love,

Hannah